If you have one of the consumer metal printers and a consumer plastic printer, it means you can print your own car parts from aluminum, iron, or lower carbon steel pellets, and all the trim with the plastic printer.
Congratulations, you have a body shop, and an example car.
Getting ahold of the original specifications becomes the biggest challenge at that point, so that you can manufacture the parts within tolerance.
slaps roof
This baby has been going since the early '20s. We’ve been through a lot together, almost every part has been replaced, and it’s still not reliable!
I’ll tell you what, using that points distributor on my Lulzbot has sped up printing considerably! Unfortunately the print nozzle connected to the 401 nailhead sure makes the Buick hard to start.
I’ve made a few logos. One of them I used to make a stamping die that deformed some sheet metal. Worked shockingly well.
I’ve also made a simple phone mount and a lens for the glovebox. My ultimate plan is to make the housing for new headlights, but lack of time and wanting to scan rather than measure the sheetmetal opening has slowed me down on that project.
3d printers are the new classic car that needs a little bit of work.
Ugh, I have both and now I question what that means about me.
If you have one of the consumer metal printers and a consumer plastic printer, it means you can print your own car parts from aluminum, iron, or lower carbon steel pellets, and all the trim with the plastic printer.
Congratulations, you have a body shop, and an example car.
Getting ahold of the original specifications becomes the biggest challenge at that point, so that you can manufacture the parts within tolerance.
How does it get to the right temperatures??
What? The printer? They use metal pellets and AFAIK, you program the printer to heat an induction coil to melt the pellets.
Yes. Very cool. Thanks for the explanation.
slaps roof This baby has been going since the early '20s. We’ve been through a lot together, almost every part has been replaced, and it’s still not reliable!
Why not both!? I’ve used one to make parts for the other.
How do you use a car to make parts for a printer?
I’ll tell you what, using that points distributor on my Lulzbot has sped up printing considerably! Unfortunately the print nozzle connected to the 401 nailhead sure makes the Buick hard to start.
I have been making parts for my FIL’s 61 Ranchero. I have made almost every gasket, the heating couplers, and dash knobs.
I’ve made a few logos. One of them I used to make a stamping die that deformed some sheet metal. Worked shockingly well.
I’ve also made a simple phone mount and a lens for the glovebox. My ultimate plan is to make the housing for new headlights, but lack of time and wanting to scan rather than measure the sheetmetal opening has slowed me down on that project.
I have a 3D printer, and a Suzuki Samurai. More than a few parts for the 35 year old Suzuki have been printed by me.