How is the build chamber in your 3D-printer heated? Is there any thermal insulation and if how thick is it?

My two cents:

** thermal insulation**

That’s the math for a small 300x300mm printer heated to 70°C (for 130°C tripple this number).

With a 6030 aluminium extrusion a 60mm insulation would fit within the walls and bring down the heatloss to approx. 45W. In other words: Once it is heated up the thermal losses are small enough for it to hold the temperature on its own. Reducing the overall power consumption.

heating/temperature control

For cooling and heating: oil<-> air heat exchanger/radiator might be a good solution:

  • place one inside the printer
  • the other on the outside
  • insert a heater in the loop (only when heating is required, for cooling keep it off)
  • possible to push past the 100°C liquid temperature.

Add a fan that circulates the air within the chamber to equalize the temperature.

This way the chamber can be heated and cooled without venting any air into the room.

  • Boozilla@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    27 days ago

    I do resin printing (SLA) and warmer is always better (within reason). On cooler days I wrap the UV shield with a brewer’s belt (AKA a fermentation belt). Then I cover the whole thing with the cardboard box the printer came in. Works like a charm. The belt keeps it nice and warm without getting scary hot (75-80F or 24-27C). It pulls low wattage, less than most light bulbs.

    For filament printing, something similar might work, but I have zero experience with FDM.